Experienced surfers have dozens of great surf breaks to choose from even if they live on the New England coast, but each of us has to decide which break to call our own on any given day. Or, if you are just starting out as a surfer, you will want to choose one break as your wave of choice and continue going there until you’ve expended all you could from it. All surfers must decide where to paddle out, so here’s a list of criteria to help you make the most informed decision.
People With the popularity of surfing growing all over the world, there are always surf breaks that are a bit more notorious for localism, which is never a good arena for a beginner. Surfers can be mean and possessive of their waves, so you’ll want to find a break where the people are nice. If you’re a people person, try to head somewhere friendly, where you won’t get your head lopped off if you get into a bang up out in the water. Or, if you’re kind of a loner and you can hold your own in the water, then it’s okay to hit the edgier spots where people kind of grimace at you. In most cases, though, it’s always nice to be around people who are friendly and can even strike up conversation with you even though you are complete strangers.
Wave Quality and Consistency The quality of the wave depends heavily on the wind and swell conditions, so check your local surf or weather report for the latest update. There are many conditions that make a pleasant surfing experience, but you can get a good snapshot of what’s going on in your area simply by looking at swell height and wind direction from a local website. Or, you can always just head on down to the beach and check for wave quality visually. Relative to wave quality, though, is the actual consistency of the sets. Sets are simply a grouping of waves that break within a period of time. You want to paddle out where sets come through at least every 15 minutes. That way, everyone out there can get a wave or two and not have to fight over the same one. Every surfer is in the water for the same reason: to have a mellow, relaxed time with little possibility of drowning. Share the waves when they’re good, but still get out there when they’re not so good.
Water Quality The sky can be perfectly blue and the temperature warm, but if the water is not clean, you’re certainly not going to want to paddle out. Die-hard surfers might paddle out in crappy conditions, but if there was an oil spill or sewage drain, then even they will resist getting in the water. Surfers want to be able to get their heads wet without stinking—or worse, getting sick from contaminated water. Bays generally tend to have better wave conditions but more polluted water. You have to decide which is more important to you. Check your local website for water quality conditions in your area, especially after it rains.
A few other things to look for in a surf break are freshwater showers, functioning bathrooms, and safety. If you tend to surf before or after work and don’t have time to run home to change, you should absolutely find a break with a shower and bathroom. It’s also advisable to choose a break that has a lifeguard or is close to water rescue. Also consider surfing at a break that doesn’t have rocks jutting out from the water at low tide, or with notorious rip currents that can suck you out to sea. Ask friends who surf where they like to go. As you continue surfing, you will generate a longer list and discover more secret spots.
Robb Bailey works for South Coast Surf Shops, San Diego’s premiere surfboard distributor and surf apparel dealer for more than 30 years. He has been inducted as a lifetime honorary member of his college surf club, the Cal Poly Surfer’s Association, and has traveled the world surfing for the past 11 years. Find out more about Robb at SouthCoast.com
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